FISI: Italian Ski Federation - Ski Instructor
FISI Allenatore federale
UIGAM: International Federation of Mountain Guides Association
Alpine Guide of Courmayeur

Cervino-The Matterhorn 4.478 M. (The Italian normal route)Today 18/06/2019

info & prenotazioni

cervino itinerario

Cervino- The Matterhorn 4478 M.      (The Italian normal route)

Lord Byron, the great English Romantic poet, defined the Matterhorn as “the most noble crag in Europe”. The normal Italian route is the one that was used by the first climbers, ,Jean-Antoine Carrel, a Guide from Valtournenche and his climbing companion Aimé Gorret, an abbot and historian. Today, despite the passing of time, the Matterhorn maintains unaltered its fascination; it is still a wonderful climb with many aerials and rock climbs with grade 4 difficulty. It offers enormous satisfaction and is a must in the career of a good mountaineer.



Day 1
From the town of Cervinia we go to either the Oriondè or the Duca  degli Abbruzzi refuge. There are two possibilities: one by cable car as far as Plan Maison (2548 metres.)followed by a diagonal crossing to the refuge or, alternatively, in a four-wheel drive on an unmade road that connects Cervinia to the refuge. From here, we go up past the Carrel cross and from the Leone Pass, we take the ridge that leads directly to the Amedeo di Savoia refuge at a height of 3830 metres. Dinner and accommodation at the refuge.

Day 2
The alarm is set for 3 a.m., breakfast, and a 3.45 a.m. departure.. Right behind the refuge there is the “wake-up” rope, a climb that alternates bolted parts, ledges and aerials. This ascent is never trivial and with a lot of exposure. It normally takes 3 to 4 hours to reach the cross on the peak. The return route is the same as the uphill one. 

Average time for return trip   : 8 to 10 hours
Vertical height rise:                    1,700 metres
Technical difficulty:                    3/5 
Physical fitness level:                4/5
Period:                                           from June to September

€715 for two people

The price includes:
Assistance of your Alpine Guide, use of equipment in common.
Insurance cover which includes rescue in the case of an accident.

The price does not include:
Cable car ticket: Cervinia – Plan Maison
Car transfers and eventual four-wheel drive transport to the Duca degli Abbruzzi refuge.
Accommodation and meals  for the participants and the Guide and all that is not specified under the heading “the price includes”.

In case of unfavourable weather, the cost of unforeseen changes in the itinerary will be agreed upon by the participants and the Guide.
If the technical and physical level of the participants is inadequate, the sum will not be reimbursed.

For enrolment or further information fill in the form, send an e-mail or call Edmond Joyeusaz on the following numbers:
+39 3356156885  +39 0165897627

Take only what is absolutely necessary as heavy rucksacks make the hike slow and tiring!!

Maximum 30 – 50 litre rucksack.
HarnessIce axe (max. 60 cm.)
Classic crampons with anti-balling plate.
Mountaineering boots
Telescopic poles
Abseil devices
Harnesses, ice-axes, crampons, ski-poles and helmets will be provided by the Guide if necessary. 

High protection sunglasses for alpine activities
High protection sun cream and lip-salve with protection
Cap/ hat
Mountaineering gloves
Breathable t-shirt
Windproof shell or fleece
Waterproof jacket
Mountaineering pants in “shoeller”
Mountaineering socksLeggings I

An extra t-shirtA pair of tights
An extra pair of mountaineering socks
A spare pair of light gloves
A head-lamp with new batteries
Personal medicine reserve (blister plasters, aspirin, high protection sun-cream)
Waterproof over-pants
1 litre thermos or water-bottle
High energy bars, dried fruit, chocolate, a bread roll….
Toothbrush and toothpaste
Sun hat/cap with visor
Saucepans, gas ring, cutlery and food for two days


Cerrvino, Matterhorn

Climbing Mont Blanc from Courmayeur and Chamonix with private guide, Glacier Travel, mountaineering and off piste skiing